29 Jun Men’s Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week in Paris

Paris – If anything summed up the muffled mood of the economy it was the muted hues of the latest classic, yet faintly bohemian, Hermes menswear collection shown Saturday, June 27, in the Couvent des Cordelilers, an ancient convent in central Paris.

Generally regarded as the finest made and classiest of all the ready-to-wear collections for men shown each season in Paris, Hermes took a new tack this season adding a faded gentility and lovingly worn charm to this consummately refined collection, with a trace of hippie chic.

Hermes menswear designer Veronique Nichanian has always favors noble materials and there was no shortage of them this season. But where once this collection was all about crisp finish, for spring 2010 the message was luxury should look a little lived in.

Instead of the glossy and glorious bright silk shirts, there were muddied and washed out poplins and cottons where the house’s signature equestrian motifs were barely visible.

For quietly stated luxury, out came a remarkable paper thin calfskin trench coat in light gray, the color of the season, and double layers of semi-sheer cashmere cardigans, often without sleeves. Accessories included studded leather and chain wrist brands. Nichanian even wrapped a chain necklace around one model wearing a jacket and tie.

“Nonchalant elegance,” was Nichanian’s definition of this collection.

Enjoy some of my favorite runway photos from Paris Fashion Week 2010